Wednesday, July 30, 2014

How art and fashion became BFFs

Chanel at Frieze, Prada's street vibe, Burberry's latest Hockney look – designers are in an arty frame of mind. Here are the latest love-ins.

Givenchy and Marina Abramovic

Marina Abramovic with Riccardo Tisci  
Riccardo Tisci, artistic director of Givenchy, with his muse Marina Abramovic. Photograph: Jamie Mccarthy/WireImage
When Jay-Z staged the Picasso Baby gallery setup for his "performance art film" (aka video) back in August, Marina Abramovic was one of the first through the door. The 66-year-old performance artist is a favourite of fashion's power players – and it's nothing to do with the episode of Sex and the City she inspired or, if we're honest, any of her art. Abramovic is one of Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci's muses and regularly wears his clothes accessorised with red lipstick and a long plait in a rather fabulous way. And that's something fashion – and art-inclined hip-hop – can appreciate.

Chanel at Frieze

Chanel at Frieze. Pictured Nuria Menuyo  
Chanel at Frieze: the quilted shoulderbag was the style of choice. Photograph: Graeme Robertson for the Guardian
October's Frieze is now firmly marked on fashion's annual calendar, with the art world's style a great tonic after four weeks of front rows eyeing up each other's outfits. There's one element that these two groups no doubt have in common – a penchant for Chanel's classic 2.55 handbag. At this year's Frieze, the quilted, chained shoulderbag was the style of choice in an environment where designer accessories come as standard. While the shoulderbag is currently beta in fashion circles (see the oversized clutch), the art crowd feel differently. With Karl Lagerfeld delving into art as inspiration for Chanel's spring collection, maybe they're on to something.

David Hockney and Burberry

The Hockney look on the Burberry catwalk  
The Hockney look on the Burberry catwalk. Photograph: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Every man can learn a lot by looking at David Hockney's wardrobe. The tousled blond hair. The owlish glasses. The hint of a dandy in primary-coloured tailoring. The Yorkshireman has long been held in esteem by fashion. Burberry's Christopher Bailey is a fan – referencing the artist in collections dating back to 2005. The brand's most recent collection had those brights mixed with cosy sweaters – a very Hockney outfit indeed. A notable mention here must also go to Andy Warhol – Hockney's rival for the Most Fashionable Male Artist award. His fright wig, skinny black trousers and Breton top add up to what we call a Strong Look.

Prada and the street artists

Prada's street-art designs for S/S2014.  
Prada's street-art designs for SS14. Photograph: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images
If Prada always namechecks real women – the stronger the better – the Italian brand's spring collection also delved into the world of street art. The label commissioned six young artists, whose work appeared on the walls of the show venue but also over vibrant dresses, coats and bags, sometimes with jewelled panels and always with striped legwarmers. The result? A kind of hybrid of investment pieces – bonding this season's "it" designs with what is effectively limited-edition artwork. This is a very Prada conceit – and one that will no doubt appeal to the strong women who wear the designer's clothes.

Linder Sterling and Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll catwalk  
London designer Richard Nicoll is influenced by Linder Sterling's provocative take on pop art. Photograph: Ian Gavan/Getty Images
The artist who made artwork for the sleeve of the Buzzcocks' 1977 single Orgasm Addict – a naked woman with an iron for a head – might not sound like the obvious candidate for a fashion collaboration but she has been partnering with London designer Richard Nicoll since 2009. It works. Linder's provocative take on pop art – collaging everything from 60s pornography to household appliances and flowers – brings an edgy kind of femininity that stands out from your average ditsy floral. A unisex line, S/He, is in the works, while the latest print features a mod-ish girl overlayed with a chrome tap. Sounds weird, looks great.

Art and pop

Lady Gaga Artpop album cover by Jeff Koons 
  Lady Gaga's Artpop album cover by Jeff Koons
While Miley Cyrus is busy redefining sleaze with photographer Terry Richardson, other pop stars are forming brand-positioning alliances of their own, by paying artists lots of money to work with them. Katy Perry – usually more associated with hangover-inducing E-number brights – has wheeled in Ryan McGinley to shoot the cover of her new album, Prism, and it has all the hazy romance of the photographer's work. Lady Gaga – not familiar with the idea of "over-the-top" – has tapped the like-minded Jeff Koons, who made a sculpture of her for the cover of her upcoming ARTPOP. Arguably, it's a match made in heaven.

Marc Jacobs and contemporary art

Models present creation by US designer M  
Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton: based on Richard Prince's Nurses series of paintings. Photograph: Pierre Verdy/AFP/Getty Images
Leaving Louis Vuitton after 16 years will allow Marc Jacobs to concentrate on his own label – and bolster his already significant art collection. He is the proud owner of works by Richard Prince, Ed Ruscha, Damien Hirst and John Currin, and has also been a pioneer when it comes to working with artists for his clothing collections. Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami and Yayoi Kusama have been among his collaborators and spring 2008's Louis Vuitton collection was based on Prince's Nurses series. In Jacobs' world, art and fashion are BFFs already.

J Crew and studio chic

J Crew splattered trousers  
J Crew pays homage to painters with its splattered trousers. Fashion's current preoccupation with art is effectively the death knell of the minimalist look – most art (Donald Judd and his ilk aside) is about getting messy. This new abandon is evident even at Céline – once home of no-spillage minimalism – where paint swooshes filled the spring collection. While a Dior campaign out now features the very-refined Marion Cotillard contrasted against drips of paint on a wall, the paint splatter of an artist's studio clothes is set to become the motif of 2014. As well as Céline, a pair of splattered trousers in the J Crew collection already have a buzz about them and Martin Margiela has a pair of very smart brogues covered in paint. Messy, but pleasingly so.


 http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/oct/22/art-fashion-bff-chanel-frieze-burberry

Monday, July 28, 2014

Designing Woman

Take a look at the Project Runway winner's designs and workroom. 

irina shabayeva and kalyn hemphill 

"So many women are afraid of the bitch word, but you've got to go for what you want. It's not going to be handed to you."

ON HEMPHILL: Shoes, $890, Barbara Bui; dress & hat, Irina Shabayeva.

ON SHABAYEVA: Top, $96, Kain; leggings, $265, Helmut Lang; shoes, $1095, Barbara Bui; scarf, Irina Shabayeva.  

irina shabayeva workroom


"I am fascinated with flight! Planes, birds, butterflies — I love the freedom that they symbolize." -Irina 

dress by irina shabayeva


"I always want things to look luxe, so my biggest challenge was stretching the $9000 we'd been given to make it seem like I'd spent $20,000." -Irina 

irina shabayeva


Top, $96, Kain; leggings, $265, Helmut Lang; scarf, Irina Shabayeva. 

 

"I love this sketch. I have a special affinity for lingerie; nothing makes a woman feel more beautiful." -Irina  


"I wore this mask for Halloween. I like mystery and anonymity. It's the only way people won't be prejudiced when meeting you." -Irina 


"The workroom was always tense, but then Kalyn would come in all smiles, and I was like, 'I want to live in your world!' She gave me a sense of relief and hope." -Irina

ON HEMPHILL: Top, skirt & boots, Irina Shabayeva. ON SHABAYEVA: Top, $96, Kain; leggings, $265, Helmut Lang; necklace, $175, 3.1 Phillip Lim; bracelet, $48, Hayden-Harnett; ring, Shabayeva's own. 

 

"I research everything on YouTube, like how to crochet a flower or knit a certain stitch. For my collection, I YouTube'd how to make hand-blocked felt hats, then made each one." -Irina

Shoes, $900, Krisvanassche; wrap, top, pants, hat & handbag, Irina Shabayeva.  


"I'm a big collector of interesting random items." -Irina 

 

"I wanted to send a message that it's OK to be a woman and be fragile, but it's also OK to have a layer of armor, because you need it." -Irina 

http://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/trends/irina-shabayeva-fashion#slide-9 

'Project Runway' Winners: Where Are They Now?


- Have you ask yourself question what happens with winner of "Project Runway"? I know i did.. Being such a big fan of this show I was carious if the actually can make it in the industry or no. And seems like they did. - (from author)

Jay McCarroll

As the winner of the show's first season, McCarroll was awarded $100,000, a mentorship from Banana Republic and a spot in the prestigious 2005 New York Fashion Week event, but the gregarious designer turned down the money and the mentorship, citing contractual issues. After leaving New York, McCarroll taught at Philadelphia University and had a fashion line on QVC. In April 2008, he launched his blog and designer fashion boutique, The Colony by Jay McCarroll. In 2010, McCarroll won the seventh season of Celebrity Fit Club on VH1, having lost 40 pounds on the reality show.

Jay McCarroll 
Tangier Trapeze TankNishinomiya Baseball Shirt


Chloe Dao

Since beating out Daniel Vosovic and Santino Rice on the second season of the reality show -- then airing on Bravo -- Dao has continued to expand her Houston-area clothing boutique Lot (later renamed Chloe Dao boutique). Recently, Dao acted as judge for season one of Project Runway Vietnam.
Chloe Dao
IMG_1786 Arielle Top Hadley Skirt Front

Jeffrey Sebelia

Sebelia’s Cosa Nostra was a favorite among such stars as Gwen Stefani, Elton John, Madonna and Tommy Lee even before his time on Project Runway. After his season three win, and during a tumultuous financial time for Cosa Nostra, Sebelia took the position of head designer with a new fashion house named Fluxus. In 2011, he debuted a kid’s clothing line called La Minitura, a fun mix of British posh and pop-punk that can be found at Kitson and Barney’s New York.

Jeffrey Sebelia 


Christian Siriano

Probably the most well-known Runway alum, Siriano was just 20 years old when he competed on the television program, and his ultra-feminine designs and trademark catchphrase “fierce” made him a fan favorite. Siriano's eponymous fashion line, Christian Siriano, debuted at New York Fashion Week in September 2008. His collection is available at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus, and he has a popular line of footwear for Payless Shoesource. He also has designed for multiple celebrities, including Taylor Swift and Kaley Cuoco.
Christian Siriano

Leanne Marshall

The Portland, Ore., native stills maintains her familiarity with the fashion world. Most recently, Marshall can be found designing wedding gowns in her Brooklyn, N.Y., studio. She even had a spring/summer wedding dress collection that was shown at 2013's New York Fashion Week.


Leanne Marshall


Irina Shabayeva

A graduate of Parsons School of Design, Shabayeva is originally from the Republic of Georgia. After her Project Runway win, She designed Selena Gomez’s dress for the 2011 People’s Choice Awards and the ombre gown worn by Grammy winner Carrie Underwood on the cover of her album Blown Away. Shabayeva launched a limited-edition collection exclusively for Macy's INC in February 2011.
Irina Shabayeva 
dress by irina shabayeva

Seth Aaron Henderson

Henderson's most recent show was at Portland Fashion Week in October 2011 and featured sustainable fabrics made from recycled plastic bottle, reinforcing his philosophies on "clothing with a conscience."
Seth Aaron Henderson

Gretchen Jones

Jones’ victory over Mondo Guerra is considered the most controversial win the show has ever seen, with judges Michael Kors and Nina Garcia clearly in favor of Jones' collection and Heidi Klum and guest judge Jessica Simpson favoring Guerra. Jones now lives in Brooklyn, where she runs her ready-to-wear women’s line, Gretchen Jones NYC, and consistently shows at New York Fashion Week. For the spring-summer 2013 season, she was chosen as one of GenArt's Fresh Faces.
Gretchen Jones

Anya Ayoung-Chee

After winning a coveted spot in New York Fashion Week, Ayoung-Chee has showed her Project Runway collection at Jamaica Fashion Weekend. Recently, the former Miss Trinidad and Tobago Universe accepted a yearlong position as travel ambassador for Trinidad and Tobago.
Anya Ayoung-Chee

Dmitry Sholokhov

The ballroom dancer-turned-fashion designer was crowned the season 10 champion and has created a collection of eight cocktail and evening dresses exclusively for Lord & Taylor.  

Dmitry Sholokhov
 

 

Michelle Lesniak Franklin

The Portland, Ore.-based designer survived the first-ever "teams" edition to become the 11th-season winner. In April, she told THR that her immediate plans were "to get an accountant to figure out how to do my taxes with all that money [prizes included $100,000 in cash], and start hiring help and building a team. I'm a one-woman show right now, and I can't do it anymore. It's too tough. It's time for an expansion and to take over the world." She also was planning on taking part in a couple fashion shows this year, with a bigger launch in spring 2014.
Michelle Lesniak Franklin

Mondo Guerra

After coming in second to Gretchen Jones in season eight of the reality competition, Guerra was the winner of the first Project Runway: All-Stars in 2012. In commemoration of World AIDS Day, the openly gay Mexican-American designer -- who revealed his HIV-positive status on Project Runway -- created a limited edition of T-shirts. He also designed a limited edition "Movers & Shakers" T-shirt to benefit Dining Out for Life and introduced his "Haute Dog" spring line at Fashion Week El Paseo in March. His exclusive collection of eyewear with national optical boutique SEE hit stores this fall, and he  partnered with Merck for "I Design," a national HIV/AIDS education campaign. Guerra also recaps Project Runway for THR.com.
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Mondo Guerra 

Anthony Ryan Auld

As the winner of the second All-Stars season, Auld will create a custom-branded capsule collection for Nine West and was awarded a cash prize of $150,000, a sewing and embroidery studio provided by Brother Sewing and Embroidery, an all-expenses paid trip around the world to attend fashion weeks in cities such as Paris, London, Milan and Tokyo. In January, he told THR he had plans to show at several fashion weeks throughout the year and planned to invest part of his $150,000 cash prizewith fellow All Stars competitor Joshua McKinley.  "I really believe in what he does with tanks and how innovative he can be, and we'll be working together more," he said. "This seed money will help him push his business. I really believe in him and the passion behind everything  he does."
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Anthony Ryan Auld 

Dom Streater

Dom Streater went from working two jobs to support herself to winning season 12 of Project Runway and a $500,000 prize package -- the biggest in series history. She has since been able to quit one of those jobs and work full-time as a designer. She's currently at work in her fall/winter 2014 collection with plans to show at Philadelphia Fashion Week in February. "I was very inspired by Russian ballet, and I'm excited about the softer side of design that I don't get to access," she told THR after her win.
Dom Streater
http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/gallery/project-runway-winners-are-they-578674#14-dom-streater