Edith Head
Fashion Designer (1897–1981)
Edith Head was one of the most
prolific costume designers in 20th century film, winning a record eight Academy
Awards. She's known for films such as 'All About Eve,' 'Roman Holiday' and 'The
Sting.'
Born on October 28, 1897, Edith Head
became chief designer at Paramount Pictures in 1933 and later worked at
Universal Studios. Hollywood's best-known designer, Head's costumes ranged from
the elegantly simple to the elaborately flamboyant. She won a record eight
Academy Awards for her work in films such as All About Eve (1950), Roman
Holiday (1953), The Facts of Life (1960) and The Sting
(1973).
Legendary American costume designer
Edith Head was born Edith Claire Posener on October 28, 1897, in San
Bernardino, California, the daughter of a mining engineer. Head relocated
several times during her youth, growing up largely in Arizona, Nevada and Mexico.
After graduating from Los Angeles High School, she attended the University of
California, Berkeley, where she received her Bachelor of Arts degree in letters
and sciences (earning honors in French), and then went on to enroll at Stanford
University, where she earned a Master of Arts degree in romance languages in
1920.
After receiving her M.A., Edith Head
served a brief stint as a schoolteacher. Then, in 1923, Head landed the
position of sketch artist, then design assistant at Paramount Studios
in Los Angeles. In 1938, Head was named chief designer at Paramount
Pictures. She remained at Paramount for 44 years until 1967 when she moved to
Universal Studios, where she became known for personally phoning producers and
directors who were working on important films for the studio to offer her
services.
Head received her first Academy
Award nomination (Best Costume Design, Color; shared with designer Gile Steele)
in 1949, for her design work in the 1948 film The Emperor Waltz,
starring Joan Fontaine (Johanna Augusta Franziska) and Bing Crosby (Virgil Smith). Head won her first
Oscar (Best Costume Design, Black-and-White; shared with designer Gile Steele)
in 1950, for her costume work in 1949's The Heiress.
Head's costumes ranged from the
elegantly simple to the elaborately flamboyant. The celebrated visionary
continued to be an artistic force with other films from the decade,
including All About Eve (1950), Roman Holiday (1953), Sabrina
(1954), To Catch a Thief (1955), The Ten Commandments (1956)
and Houseboat (1958). And the 1960s saw Head serving as designer for
movies like The Nutty Professor (1963), The Carpetbaggers (1964),
the Natalie Wood comedies Sex and the Single
Girl (1964) and Penelope (1966), Chuka (1967) and Barefoot
in the Park (1967), among many other projects.
Record-Setting
Oscar Wins
By 1970, Head had received her 31st
Oscar nomination, specifically for her work on Bob Fosse's 1969 musical Sweet Charity,
starring Shirley MacLaine (Charity) and Ricardo Montalban (Vittorio). Head had also
reunited with iconic director Alfred Hitchcock (the two had worked together on
previous Hitchcock films like Rear Window, Vertigo and The
Birds) for Topaz (1969), and with George Roy Hill for Butch Cassidy
and the Sundance Kid (1969), starring Paul Newman and Robert Redford. She later called the latter film
her favorite movie, stating, "In terms of sheer entertainment, not in
terms of my designing ... It had everything—humor, action, romance and the two
handsomest men in Hollywood."
In 1978, Head was honored with her
last Oscar nomination (Best Costume Design; shared with Burton Miller), for her
design work in Airport '77. She had won her eighth and last
Oscar four years earlier, in 1974—setting the record for most Oscars won by a
woman (a record she still holds today)—for her work in Hill's The Sting (1973).
Later
Years and Legacy
By the end of her lifetime, Edith
Head had secured her legacy as Hollywood's best-known costume
designer. During her career, Head worked on more than 1,100 films,
received 35 Oscar nominations and took home eight statues. She was also known
for having designed uniforms for female members of the U.S. Coast Guard towards
the end of the 1970s. She also authored the books The Dress Doctor
(1959), How to Dress for Success (1967) and the posthumous,
autobiographical Edith Head's Hollywood (1983).
The iconic designer died on October
24, 1981, at the age of 83, in Hollywood, California.
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